Sheeshedar

One of the well- known crafts associated with embroidery is Sheeshedar or mirror work. It is a highly intricate form of sewing mirror discs onto the fabric The art supposed to have originated in Persia, dates back to the early 13th century. But not much is known about it. Marco Polo, who came to India in the same century, commented that the gold and silver embroidery in this region was more skillfully done than anywhere else in the world.

The art of putting mirrors into the garments is usually combined with other forms of embroidery. The communities who were already familiar with art of embroidery incorporated this craft so as to add more effects to their designs.

The Jats of Banni in Kutch, whose ancestry may be traced to Baluchistan produce a distinctive effect that is characterised by small, intricate geometric patterns. Mirror discs are cut in the shape of petals and leaves, and blended into the designs for shimmering delicacy.

Kathi embroidery emphasise floral patterns whose interior are filled with herringbone stitch. Popular motifs of flowers or peacocks are used and the intervening spaces were filled with leaves and buds. Mirrors discs are commonly inserted the center of flowers, eyes of birds and animals and this accentuates the patterns.

Several other communities produces their variants in this region. The Mahajans are known for their unique style of austere geometric embroidery. Often employing a monochrome of red or violet, in long darning stitches, these cover the entire cloth. Sometimes the sheen of silk together white and cream threads is used to produce a rich effect on mirrors at the intersection of motifs. The Kanbis, another community are noted for their bright yellow and orange thread colours used with large mirrors of upto one inch in diameter and framed in metal to embolden its impact. Garao Jats on the other hand, employ incredibly miniscule mirror embroidery on a background heavily encrusted with white thread, blazed with red, orange, blue and green.