Embroidery

The ornamentation of woven cloth with needle and thread is embroidery. It has assumed many forms of distinctive technique and is known by many names throughout India. Clearly the transformation afforded to fabric and apparel is so striking, that it has been an art of great importance, allowing the wealthier segments of society to make fashion statements by flaunting its display.

Kutch and Kathiawar in Gujerat are arguably without peer for some of the finest and most intricate of fold embroideries in the world. Original embroideries are collectors items and are used as doorway friezes (torans), wall hangings or as patchwork on garments.The embroideries popularly depict floral motifs as well as figurative elements of animals such as elephants, parrots and tortises and, interspersed liberally with small mirrors.

Traditionally the skills of embroidary are picked up by young girls, who spend considerable time making apparel for their use and that of family members. This display of embroidery is not only a token of wealth but also brings colour, identity and sybolism to everyday life.

Each community has its own preferences of embroidery, that vary in design and colours. The ‘phulkari’ and ‘bagh’ are typical of Punjabi framing women while the ‘rumals’ or cowrie shell edged embroidery is typical of the Banjaras (gypsies) of central india. Kantha embroidery from Bengal as well as the stem-feather and chain stitched shawls of Kashmir, ‘chulam’ embroidery of Lucknow, ‘toda’ embroidery of the Nilgris, ‘kasuit’ of Karnataka and the Moghul inspired ‘zardosi’ of Benares are other examples of regional style of embroidery.