Dyes
Historically, natural dyes have been used
to color clothing and textiles. Natural dyes generally require a mordant (a
color fixer), which are metallic salts of aluminum, iron, chromium, copper and
others, for ensuring the reasonable fastness of the color to sunlight and
washing. By the mid-1800’s chemists began producing synthetic substitutes for
them that possessed superior color vibrancy and color retention through wash and
exposure to sunlight. By the early part of the twentieth century only a small
percentage of textile dyes were extracted from plants. Lately there has been
increasing interest in natural dyes, as the public becomes aware of ecological
and environmental problems related to the use of synthetic dyes. Use of natural
dyes cuts down significantly on the amount of toxic effluent resulting from the
synthetic dye process.
Napthol and Reactive dyes are two sets of chemicals which when reacted with
each other produce a third chemical essentially colourful in nature. Fabric is
dyed in one and later printed with the other. The chemical reaction produces a
third colour. However, the biggest drawback of this process is that there are
just a few chemicals available which produce colours when reacted with each
other.
Vegetable and Natural dyes have been historically of great importance, and
these dyes have acquired even greater importance now because of their
eco-friendly nature. Some of the commonly use dyes in this category are Bagru
Black, Bagru Red and Indigo Blue. Bagru Black is derived by mixing acidic
solution of iron - often rusted nails/horse shoes etc. with jaggery (country
sugar), and allowed to rot for about 10-15 days. Many other natural substances
used for producing dyes are pomegranate skins, bark of mango tree, vinegar,
slaked lime etc. Bagru Red is made by combining a source material such as
alizerine with alum, the results ranging from pink to deep red. Indigo Blue is
obtained from the indigo bush found throughout India.