Bandhej
In bandhej or bandhina, the finely woven fabric is knotted tightly and dyed to
achieve a distinct design. The sarees, odhnis (veils) and turbans of
these regions are a medley of brilliant colours. The bandhini of Kutch is
unmatched for their fineness of the minutely tied knots, the magnificence of the
colours and the perfect designs. "Bandhana" is an Indian word which
means "to tie" and it is from this Indian word that the English name
for a spotted handkerchief "Bandana" derives.
The art of bandhina requires a good mastery over dyeing. The fabric is
first degummed and dipped in a mordant so that it absorbs the dye. Then the
basic divisions of areas, borders etc are carried out. Important centers noted
for this technique are Saurashtra and Kutch in Gujarat and
Rajasthan state.
Kutch produces the finest Bandhanis in India. Mandvi and Bhuj are also other
important bandhani producing centers. The Khatri community of Gujarat is known
for their fine quality dyeing. The Gharchola saris carry tied and
dyed patterns. These saris are traditionally bought for weddings and they carry
a gold thread for the checks with small golden motifs like peacock or lotus in
the center. These saris are tied and dyed in Kutch. The final red color of the
Gharchola saris are dyed in Jamnagar because of the special quality of water
there. Rajkot in Saurastra is another important center for bandhanis.
In Rajasthan, Jodhpur, Jaipur and Sikar are the notable centers. Sikar produces
one of the finest Bandhanis. Another form of tie and dye in Rajasthan is the
Lahriya and Mothra. Here the opposite ends of the length of the cloth
are pulled and rolled together. They are then tied and dyed in different colors
producing multicolored lines. Mothra is formed when the same process is repeated
by using the opposite ends. This is done only in Jaipur and Jodhpur. Lahriya
technique is used for making turbans for the Rajputs of Rajasthan.
The same technique is used in Madurai in Tamilnadu to produce the famous Sungudi
saris, which are a must for many communities during marriages in the South.